Jacques Jaeger-LeCoultre launched a new high-precision complex high-end jewelry series watch, combining design, technical construction, watchmaking art and exquisite craftsmanship as never before, showing the excellent watchmaking technology and style of the watch factory. The watch is equipped with three complex functions: minute repeater, flying tourbillon and zodiac calendar. Each function is extremely complex and brings together the latest watchmaking standards, and the master craftsmanship of Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmaking makes them perfectly blended with unique romantic feelings. The MasterGrandeTraditionGrandeComplication watch will be available in a limited edition of 8 white gold models, equipped with a unique movement and set with dazzling gemstones.
The essence of this watch lies in its classic interpretation of astronomical timepieces. The flying tourbillon rotates in orbit, and the dial depicts the exquisite northern hemisphere starry sky, which perfectly integrates the elements of astronomical astrology. On the outer edge of the dial of this remarkable watch, a sun rotates on a 24-hour basis. The bezel shows the 24-hour scale, the signs of the zodiac, the week and the month. The flying tourbillon, which runs at an even speed in the ultra-light titanium frame, is equipped with advanced technology to ensure that the watch is accurate. In addition, the watch is equipped with a minute repeater, and two crystal gongs are fixed on the sapphire crystal. In conjunction with the ‘trébuchet’ balance hammer, just by gently moving the timepiece handle, the watch will emit a crisp, full-bodied music.
The classic white gold case and the decoration of the movement components that follow the traditional watchmaking tradition fully demonstrate all the outstanding skills and expertise acquired by Jaeger-LeCoultre in the field of fine watchmaking for 181 years. The case of this MasterGrandeTradition watch is designed with precious stones inlaid by the designer, showing its extraordinary structure. The crown is set with exquisite baguette-cut diamonds; two rows of baguette-cut diamonds extend to the left and right sides of the crown and above the lugs, perfectly embodying the convex surface of the case.
Star map and Zodiac calendar
Basically, the earth rotates around its axis for one day. According to different reference points, astronomy distinguishes between solar and stellar days. The former refers to the sun, while the latter refers to other celestial bodies, that is, more distant stars. As the earth revolves around the sun, it also rotates, so the solar day is slightly longer than the stellar day, about 4 minutes. In order to achieve these astronomical functions and make the watch a perfect tool for astronomical observation, Jaeger-LeCoultre made the star disk rotate once every 23 hours and 56 minutes, that is, a stellar day. In addition, the zodiac calendar is placed on the outer edge of the dial, with the month display, it can accurately indicate the position of the star at any time throughout the year; the perpetual calendar is used to adjust the timing system.
The dial shows superb craftsmanship, combined with the graceful aesthetic design, looks noble and extraordinary. The dark blue gold sandstone starry sky is dotted with shiny diamond stars, two curved rectangular cut sapphire crescents, light blue slightly pan, and surrounds. The guilloche-painted dial with month and zodiac signs shows a lighter blue light. The subtle gradation of layers of colors makes the multi-layered dials present a deep effect, highlighting the exquisite skills of the designer and craftsman of the watch factory. Diamond hour markers and stars complement each other, and the dazzling bezel makes this super complicated watch exquisite, brilliant and charming.
Tourbillon and silicon escapement parts
Different from the traditional structure using the upper and lower bridges, the flying tourbillon is only fixed on one side of the movement, so there is only one cantilevered fulcrum. The entire tourbillon contains 73 components, with a diameter of 12.42 mm and a thickness of 3.85 mm. The lightweight titanium frame is placed on ceramic ball bearings that do not require lubrication, which is extremely simple and simple, so that the escapement can be seen at a glance. The 10mm single metal balance balance is equipped with adjusting screws and Breguet balance springs, with an inertia of 11.5mgcm2 and a vibration frequency of up to 4 Hz.
Because of this, the silicon components of the escapement are clearly visible, such as the lever and escape wheel with integrated pallet fork. The escapement wheel has been completely redesigned to meet the latest demands on light weight and ease of operation. The lever with integrated pallet fork is designed in a straight line for better aerodynamics. The use of non-lubricated silicon components not only improves the accuracy of the watch’s long-term operation, but also reduces the inertia by one third compared to traditional steel components, and improves the overall efficiency of the escapement by 15%.
Innovative and unique minute repeater mechanism
In order to get the clear-cut time tone, the MasterGrandTraditionGrandeComplication is unique and equipped with a device that can report the hours, quarter clocks and minutes as required-this complex device is already a masterpiece!
The sound quality of a timepiece depends to a large extent on the gong. The gong is an essential sounding component. In order to deliver a pure sound, Jaeger-LeCoultre designed a new cathedral gong in 2010, which can produce a very full and round sound. This kind of gong is made of special alloy material and is integrally formed. The cross section is square instead of ordinary round, which makes the contact surface with the gong larger, which increases the volume.
Under normal circumstances, the gongs increase the volume through the vibration of the case. However, Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmakers have installed a unique ‘loudspeaker,’ a patented system in which the gong is connected to a layer of metal foil under the sapphire crystal of the watch. By turning the handle on the side of the platinum case, you can clearly appreciate the two small hammers that are constantly struck on the back of the case. The watchmaker invented a special device called ‘trébuchet’ for this purpose, to improve the sound quality of the timekeeping mechanism. They abandoned the traditional hammer and designed a two-axis system with a special hinge joint connected to the moving arm. Once activated, the hammer accelerates to strike the gong until it touches a small contact, at which point the second moving arm is released, helping the hammer to accelerate the strike. This design uses about 80% of the energy produced by the mainspring, while traditional hammer systems can only deliver 10% to 30% of the initial energy.
Movement-a fusion of classic decoration and modern materials
In 2010, the Jaeger-LeCoultre 945 manual winding movement came out. The movement is extremely delicate and elegant. It is the product of the fusion of traditional watchmaking and modern technology: all parts are decorated with sunlight, round grain or snail-shaped patterns, or satin-finished, highlighting the classic of the movement. Beauty. Stainless steel parts are polished and chamfered, the adjustment screws are blued, and the set screws are rhodium-plated. Not only that, looking from the side of the dial of the watch, there is another beautiful view: the flying tourbillon is equipped with a high-tech escapement, the silicon material is slightly black, and it mirrors the mirror-polished grade 5 titanium tourbillon frame Into fun.
Through the sapphire crystal case back, the exquisite details can be seen at a glance. Above the dial is a sapphire crystal glass with a dome-shaped bezel, which reflects the classic look of the watch, making this 46.7 mm diameter watch more attractive and elegantly concealing its thickness of 15.92 mm.
1000-hour Observatory Test-Extremely Accurate
In order to prove the reliability of its structure, once the MasterGrandTraditionGrandeComplication is completed and assembled, it will undergo 1000 hours of chronometer test. This test is an extended version of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s famous 1000-hour test, covering all the test content of the Swiss Official Observatory Testing Agency (COSC) precision timepiece test.
Combining Jaeger-LeCoultre fine watchmaking technology, this superbly sophisticated watch series is an outstanding example in the MasterGrandeTradition, which explains the essence of traditional watchmaking, cutting-edge technology and rare craftsmanship. (Photo / text watch home Xie Xin)