There is a ‘quotation plate’ on the most popular watch community ‘Watch House’ in Chinese. Many watch friends use it to check the watch’s official price. But in addition to the price, this section also has a very interesting feature, that is, you can mark and comment on your favorite watches. Because you need to register and log in, and each account can only mark a certain model once, we can know from this page which styles are most favored by the majority of watch friends. Although this result does not fully reflect the specific sales volume of a watch, it is indeed more true and effective than bidding rankings, personal opinions, and media evaluations. As of October 14, 2018, among the 60,484 tables, the most marked are Rolex Green Water Ghost, Rolex Black Water Ghost, and IWC Portuguese Blue Needle, which received 19544 votes, 16472 votes and 9714 votes respectively. Today, what Chiphoon Watchhosy wants to talk to his table friends is this most popular chronograph-‘Blue Hand of IWC Portugal’. [email protected] producing IWC in 1943. In 1939, two Portuguese businessmen Messrs Rodrigues and Antonio Teixera approached IWC and made a request. They wanted a watch with accurate time. At that time, the watch industry was still in the leapfrogging period from pocket watches to watches. Watchmaking technology was not as superb as it is today. For watches, the smaller the movement, the more difficult it is to achieve accuracy. So after receiving the order, IWC used Cal.74, a huge pocket watch movement to produce watches. So this model Ref.325 watch was born. Its three main appearance characteristics are: Arabic numerals, willow hands, curved lugs. Because it is equipped with a pocket watch movement, the case size reaches 42 mm +. In today’s view, this size is the standard size for men’s watches, which is very suitable. But for the era under the popular 34 mm, even if this large-caliber watch is very accurate, it is not sought after. Therefore, the first batch of Ref.325 watches were discontinued after only 304 were produced. Although two subsequent batches have been produced since the 1940s and 1970s, the total output is only 690. IWC [email protected] and Sons can say that the case size completely limits the sales of Ref.325. Until the end of the 1980s, when the market finally had the appearance of preference for large-sized watches. In 1993, coincided with the 125th anniversary of the founding of IWC, the brand took the opportunity to launch a large-sized watch Ref.5441 also equipped with a pocket watch movement, which also represented the official birth of the ‘Portuguese’ Portuguese series. IWC Portugal Chase Chronograph [email protected] In 1995, IWC introduced Ref.3712, this is the first time for a Portuguese series watch with a chronograph function. It is worth mentioning that this Ref. 3712 is not a common timing now, but a more complicated ‘chasing hand’ timing. With the additional button in the upper left corner of the case, you can record two segments with a time difference of no more than 1 minute. The single-time Ref. 3714 was only launched afterwards, but the exact time is unknown. The information found so far shows that the earliest date is 1996. From Ref. 3714 in the mid-1990s to today’s Ref. 371,446, after more than 20 years, they have almost no significant changes in appearance. The Portuguese chronograph continues the three iconic design elements of the Portuguese series in appearance, Arabic numerals, willow hands, and curved lugs. The difference from antique Portuguese watches is that Arabic numerals have changed from flat printing to the current three-dimensional scale, which has a stronger sense of hierarchy and a higher cost. One of the places where Portuguese timekeeping is considered to have a high value is that its scales and hands are treated with blue, and with a white dial, it can be described as ‘cool and elegant’. Even the sapphire crystal has been treated with blue anti-glare coating, shaking the wrist can see the faint blue light and shadow. What’s even more beautiful is that the scales and hands are actually mirror-polished before being processed in blue. So under different angles and light, the scale and pointer will cause the shade of blue to change due to the reflection. Sometimes it is a calm dark blue, blue to black, and sometimes it is blue, bright and transparent. The technology of the hand is traditional baking blue. The surface of the steel is oxidized and discolored by using a temperature of 590 °, and the scale is made by means of a blue chemical potion. The reason for the difference is that it is a difficult challenge to maintain the same blue color for the 12 special-shaped digital three-dimensional scales of Portuguese timekeeping in mass production. Although IWC uses two different specific processes on the scale and pointer, fortunately, there is not much color difference between the two. In addition to achieving beauty in color matching, IWC is also unique in the display of timing functions. The layout of our common chronograph on the dial is usually as follows: the small dial at 9 o’clock, the small dial at 3 o’clock, and the large seconds at the center. This design is actually not in line with the aesthetics of modern consumers, because the seconds hand at 9 o’clock is constantly moving, which is particularly attractive. But this focus is not on the symmetrical central axis, but on the left side of the entire dial, which leads to left-right imbalance. In addition, the second hand of the basic small three-hand watch is usually at six o’clock. Many watch friends have developed a reading habit. Now they have changed to the nine o’clock position on the left, which is very unaccustomed. The traditional dial layout was born and long-lasting because early chronograph watches came from chronograph pocket watches, rotating the entire pocket watch to the right by 90 °, and the second hand changed to the nine o’clock position at six o’clock. In order to save the cost of rebuilding and research and development of the movement, many brands have compromised and used it, and eventually became the mainstream. However, now many brands have begun to change the hours and seconds hands back to the six o’clock position, such as Rolex Daytona, Cartier 8101MC, Blancpain F385, which are produced by their own movement 4130 … The timing has processed the dial displacement and made a set of comparative photos. You can feel the static difference between the two. There are no black spots on the front of the Portuguese timekeeping except for the few ’12’ and ‘6’ digital scales that do not like its cut off. The controversial part is actually the movement behind it. The movement used in this watch is Cal.7750 from the ETA company of the Swatch Group. This movement was originally developed by the well-known chronograph manufacturer Valjoux in 1974. Later, Valjoux was classified as ETA and is now called ‘ETA 7750’. This movement is widely used by many brands for its simplicity and reliability, ranging from thousands of RMB to hundreds of thousands. But this also brought trouble, because spending tens of thousands of yuan to buy IWC Portuguese chronograph friends may not be very balanced, after all, and watches with thousands of yuan are the same model movement. Although it is the same model, the principle of ‘one price and one price’ always applies. IWC remodeled this outsourced ETA 7750. First, the Triovis fine-tuning was used. Second, the movement added more decorative polishing. Third, in order to meet the layout of the front dial, the timing part of the movement Gear trains are increased and adjusted. ‘A self-produced movement is not necessarily a good movement, and a good movement is not necessarily limited to a self-produced movement. It is undoubtedly one-sided to judge whether a movement is self-produced or not.’ Although IWC Portugal used the ETA 7750 movement, it does not mean that it is not good. Of course, it is undeniable that when IWC selected this movement, it must take into account that its cost is lower than that of its own production movement, but this is also an important reason for the success of the Portuguese chronograph series. Portuguese chronographs have achieved great success. The mystery is that the positioning of this watch by IWC was very accurate at the beginning-‘low-priced mid-end brand mechanical chronograph’. No matter in the past or now, the best-selling watches on the market must be ‘formal, casual’ styles. As for the basic three-pin and three-pin, the competition among brands has been fierce. When consumers buy the basic models and want to upgrade, they will put forward two other needs. One is function. The basic three-pin and three-pin upgrades are nothing more than calendar, day of the week, moon phase, and timing. The calendar and week functions are more practical. The moon phase is preferred, and the timekeeping is preferred. Each has its own advantages. But the special feature of the timekeeping function is that it will increase the small dial and operation buttons, so in the eyes of many watch friends, it will become more ‘complex’, and ‘complex’ is often understood as ‘high-end’ + ‘valuable’ . The other is the brand. Many watch friends started to contact Swiss watches from Tissot, Longines and Mido. When the need to rise to the next level, the choice of brands is nothing more than IWC, Omega, Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Zenith, Panerai, Breitling, Hublot. When a lot of watch friends need a ‘low-priced mid-end mechanical timing dressing, casual watch’, they will encounter a very embarrassing situation, that is, ‘the choice space is very small.’ The chronographs of Omega, Rolex, Panerai, Breitling, and Hublot are all partial sports, which do not meet the needs of mainstream consumers. The remaining options are Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC Portugal and EL PRIMERO. Master Jaeger-LeCoultre uses a self-produced movement, which costs more, so it is priced at around RMB 80,000, while IWC Portugal is timing at 55,000. The difference of 25,000 is no longer a small amount. Most ordinary consumers don’t care whether the movement is produced by themselves, but more about the price. Zenith EL PRIMERO’s price is at the same level as IWC Portugal, and it is also a self-produced movement, which is more cost-effective from the perspective of the product itself. However, due to the promotion of the brand and the ambiguity of the series of products, it was tossed by the generations, and it was eventually defeated by the stable IWC. For a long time, watch friends have been criticized on the self-produced movement, and IWC naturally knows it. Therefore, IWC also introduced an upgraded version of the Portuguese timepiece equipped with its own Cal.89361 movement. The appearance was fine-tuned and the overall style remained unchanged. But in the end, the market’s response was not satisfactory, because the price rose to 89,000 yuan, most of the tablemates still choose the cheaper version of the ETA movement. IWC suffered a loss this time, plus the loss of the previous Jaeger-LeCoultre series. In the end, Richemont Group understood the truth, that is, it still had to be a ‘low-priced mid-end brand mechanical chronograph.’ For example, in 2017, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the ‘Sector Dials’ model in its best-selling Master series, reinterpreting this popular 1930s design on modern models. Now that prices are skyrocketing, the final price of models equipped with self-produced movements does not increase, but it is even cheaper than before, as long as 64,000 yuan. 150th Anniversary Edition Ref. 371601 @ monochrome This year marks the 150th anniversary of the founding of the IWC brand. To this end, a limited edition of Ref. 371601 was launched. Compared with the previous Portuguese chronograph, it was replaced with its own column wheel chronograph movement. The enamel-based low-temperature lacquer pan was also changed to a back case. There are two versions in blue and white, each of which is limited to 2,000 pieces. The official domestic price is 58,400 yuan, which is only 2100 yuan higher than the previous ordinary version. It is now available for sale. Will the ordinary Portuguese timepiece be replaced with a new in-house movement? The answer is yes, after all, now the competition of watch brands is too fierce, IWC has to upgrade. The brand has made a low-temperature paint plate for the limited edition this time, and it is clear that it is to leave a back road for the future to launch a combination of ‘ordinary dial + new movement + back through’. Previously, IWC Portugal timing has become a generation of explosive models with its accurate positioning and outstanding face value. After experiencing setbacks, this time a new version of ‘good quality and low price’ was launched. Without a doubt, relying on the reputation accumulated over 20 years, as long as the new movement is stable and reliable, this watch will continue to sit firmly on the throne of ‘the most popular chronograph’!