Capital LAURA Lan Siqing / Chinese well-known watch and jewellery critic / life art writer / foundation studio founder I want to buy a watch that can be called a good watch How much should I put in my budget? There are not many models with a price point of 20,000 yuan, and Baumer is definitely the super-punch line at this price. I think I should regret it. Every time a reader asks how much the budget for buying a watch should be set, I always start from 30,000 yuan. This is not that models with less than 30,000 don’t have good watches, but most of the models with more highlights will still be more than 30,000. I think what we are looking for is a daily watch with a timeless design and good movement performance. It does not require much attention to care and care. It can be worn every day without worrying too much. It can be matched with any occasion. Watches. Many people will use their own movement as the only benchmark. Indeed, if the models are all at the same price, the homemade movement is indeed a plus. General-purpose movements are reliable and experienced in the market, so there is a trade-off between price and quality. General-purpose movements are indeed a good choice for cost performance, but if you use homemade styles in the same price range, it is a standout Already. Behind the self-made movement represents the capital of brand betting, whether it is time or financial, so it is also a good watch element that more people value. After the Baume & Mercier Baumatic automatic watch equipped with the homemade BM13 movement was released at the Geneva Watch Fair, I was always asked, when will the blue gradient model be available? Don’t worry, will you be here soon? It will be available in October, and the stainless steel model will be priced at around 23,000 yuan. Baume & Mercier made a small correction to the self-made Baumatic BM13 automatic movement carried in the new Baumatic automatic watch. Let me first talk about the characteristics of this movement. High coercive force: The biggest effect of 1500 Gaussian magnetism on mechanical watches is that the balance spring is sticky and the travel time is disordered. The magnetic force generated by daily-used appliances is probably At 10-25 Gauss, mobile phones are 300 to 1,500 Gauss (unused and different from incoming calls), the magnets used in handbags can generate magnetic fields ranging from 250 to 1,500 Gauss, while fields such as power towers may have 500 Gaussian magnetic force. Baume & Mercier BM13 movement fixed in the balance and shockproof device. The Baumatic automatic movement can withstand 1,500 Gauss magnetic force. Although the new generation BM13 automatic movement of the Baumatic has abandoned the silicon balance spring and switched to the alloy balance spring, the pallet and escapement wheel are still made of silicon. Therefore, in this important part, It can still maintain the high performance of anti-magnetic and low loss. In order to achieve higher diamagnetism, this case uses a more traditional soft iron design to protect the movement. Its overall diamagnetic ability exceeds the Swiss watch industry’s ISO764 standard: 60 times the gaussian diamagnetic force 25 times. Long power reserve: Why is the universal movement very reliable for 120 hours, and still watch brands insist that they invest a lot of time and money to develop their own movements? If we look at the practicality, most of the universal movements have been in development for a long time. Although they are affirmed by the long-term experience in the market, some of them need to follow the individualization of contemporary practicality. They still always pay attention to watch brands that emphasize personalization Slightly insufficient. The power reserve of a universal self-winding movement is usually about 42 hours, which is not convenient enough for modern people who may have several watch exchange wear. In order to enhance the convenience of wearing, the Baumatic BM13 automatic winding movement enhances the power reserve to 120 hours. Even if the watch is left unused for four or five days, it does not need to adjust the time and date. Baume & Mercier Baumatic COSC Observatory Watch Ref.M0A10467, stainless steel case, diameter 40 mm, equipped with BM13-1975A automatic winding movement, energy storage for 5 days, reference price RMB 22,100. What kind of movement design allows for 120 hours of power? There are three main parts: the size of the mainspring and the alloy used for the mainspring, and the angle and detail design of the escapement. Of course, the silicon escapement wheel and pallet also play an important role. Generally, the power of the movement cannot be extended, mainly because the mainspring is not long enough, or the design and output efficiency of the mainspring box and mainspring can no longer be improved. Moreover, as long as the movement starts to start, the movement starts to wear out. The place lies in the escapement structure. The use of silicon can minimize this kind of wear, and even low oil consumption can achieve low wear and high performance. The patented POWERSCAPE escapement used by Baume & Mercier Baumatic BM13 self-winding movement is redesigned in the material, shape and tooth shape of the components, so that the impact contact angle of the escapement can reduce the above-mentioned energy loss and also improve The torque stability of the overall gear train can reduce the overall energy consumption by as much as 30%. The picture on the left shows the escapement structure of the traditional movement, and the picture on the right shows the escapement wheel and escapement fork with modified tooth shape and impact angle in the Baume & Mercier BM13 movement. High durability: Baumatic BM13 automatic winding movements with a seven-year maintenance period have been certified by the Swiss Observatory COSC, so the five-azimuth correction and the day-to-day difference are positive six negative four The second is its basic precision, but the Baumatic automatic movement also enhances the durability of the movement in another aspect. The lubricant of the movement is one of the important keys to determine the wear of the gear train. When the lubricant is insufficient (or dry up), the wear of the gear train increases, which may cause the inaccurate movement or even the damage of the movement (of course, the lubricant Too much splashing will also affect the movement, but this rarely happens). The Baumatic self-winding movement is developed in the research laboratory. It uses various special lubrication for different parts of the movement’s wheel train, such as the fixed shaft of the balance wheel, the mainspring structure, the wheel train shaft and the escapement. oil. Baume & Mercier BM13 automatic movement uses different specific lubricants in important parts. In addition to the standardized performance test steps from the in-factory group, plus the COSC certification test process, the Baumatic automatic winding movement also has the durability test repeated thousands of times for wheel trains, which can ensure 10 years of intensive use without worry. high performance. Baume & Mercier also recommends that Baumatic self-winding watch users, the maintenance period of sending the watch to the repair center can be extended to 7 years. Although the self-made movement is one of the important indicators for the purchase of watches, the appearance value of the design must not be ignored, of course, wearing a watch must wear a good-looking, durable, full of details. The Baumatic self-winding watch has a gradient blue dial, the outermost edge of which is black, from the dark blue to the dark blue, like the spread and depth of the boundless ocean. In all blue dials, it is a deep and unpredictable temperament. . Maybe it is so deep, so the overall model is more stable and generous. The five-link design is used for the chain strap style. The design of the multi-link strap has always been more complicated in technology and more classical. My little wrist has always preferred a multi-link strap design for a smoother fit and comfort. The Baumatic self-winding watch uses a matte and bright staggered method. It polishes the chain strap, the case and other components. The overall model is not too public, and it is not too low-key. It is just the right depth and lightness. Dressing temperament. If you prefer the Swenist style of art, the belt model is also a good choice. Baume & Mercier Baumatic COSC Observatory Watch Ref.M0A10468, stainless steel case, diameter 40 mm, equipped with BM13-1975A automatic winding movement, energy storage for 5 days, reference price of RMB 23,000. One of the most moving aspects of the newly launched Baumatic self-winding watch is probably the price of RMB 52,600 in the yellow gold case. The generous gold needle-cone hour markers and sword-shaped hands are paired with pure white simplicity. The dial, hands, and hour markers have been polished three-dimensionally, which is rare in this price band, and has a very elegant and noble temperament gold watch design. Baume & Mercier Baumatic COSC Observatory Watch Ref.M0A10469, rose gold case, diameter 39 mm, equipped with BM13-1975A automatic winding movement, energy storage for 5 days, reference price of RMB 52,600. With a budget of 20,000 yuan, it is almost impossible to buy a style with reliable movement and self-made characteristics. It is an impossible task for 50,000 yuan to buy a mechanical watch in K gold. I often wonder because watches are too expensive now? Or have we become less keen on the pricing of watches? Whether it’s downgrading consumption (I really do n’t like the term) and buying the most valued favorite at an affordable price, is n’t that the simplest and purest joy we have in this materialistic world? In recent years, I have become fascinated with talk shows and Chinese rap. I study text, so I prefer this form of performance based on text creation, just as I like cross talk. When a watch brand is designing a watch, it should not be to use all available resources to find the most appropriate and accurate expression to present the best work, and it is better to let the right people think that they can Affordable price, buy their favorite watch? Just like the wonderful PunchLine of single bet, double bet, and even three bet in rap creation, it is a sufficient and necessary condition. I know that you have browsed countless times in watch stores and websites. You have been waiting for a watch with an outstanding performance of 20,000 yuan in all aspects for a long time. I am waiting to give myself an annual reward or wait to comfort my father. The best watch of the season, PunchLine, thank you. Join Luo Luo’s circle of friends: Search for daxiedeluola Luo Wei’s WeChat, enter Luo Yuan’s circle of friends, and have the opportunity to join the Luo Luo table friends group.